Before I begin with the dice rules setup, let me give you a little introduction. I've probably role-played in more matches than anybody else in AOL dice wrestling as so many characters between 1997 to current day that I can't even remember how many I've ever used. I've used real wrestlers and my own made-up creations and I've faced a lot of great competitors and I've faced people who are only out to promote themselves. Before you begin to read about our dice rules, let me tell you the steps to having a great match. First of all, don't be cocky and let your opponent know in some form or another that you are role-playing to be a team player. Nobody likes an opponent who is only out to make their character look good and that's it. By attempting to reverse every single move whether it's a high roll or a low roll, it leaves a bad impression. If you tell someone what to do and how to do it during the match, it's not a very smart thing to do. Typing up long descriptions of attacks each time, but when it comes time for you to sell you obviously slap some crappy description together, that is a huge no-no. A match is only as good as how all people involved will make it. No matter how much a person thinks they can get over someone else, they will always be in the match they made look crappy, which in turn makes that person look crappy as well. Let your opponent know through role-play means or otherwise that you are a team player and that you will sell his or her moves and use your imagination. Add in a few quotes here and there to add some flavor to the match. Compliment your match by role-playing the crowd's reactions to certain big moves. Occasionally, try to do moves that would put a hurting on both your opponent and yourself at the same time. (I.E. a ladder tipping over with both people on it, a suicide splash to the outside of the ring, etc.) Another thing I've found out over the years is that if you role-play to your fullest or near fullest extent, it will make your opponent do the same because there is an imaginary force that uplifts them most of the time. If you role-play crappy, it tells the other person that you don't care, so why should they care? This, in turn, makes both people role-play crappy and makes the match crappy and a waste of time. If you show to everybody you are taking this match seriously while not trying too hard to impress people, you will have a lot better matches and people will respect you for putting them over and they will most generally put you over as well.

Regular moves are what keeps a match interesting and what builds up to the big finish. Without key and proper regular moves to build up the match, it becomes irreverent and boring! You must learn the proper technique to build up a match and make yourself and your opponent look good at the same time, and this is the way to do it. Regular moves have no effect on you at the end of the match, which is often a big criticism on our style of role-playing. Other types include HP (hit points) which rack up your damage until the very end and it effects whoever wins or loses once the time comes for finishing maneuvers or just finishing your opponent off. Our style does not include this which gives total and complete freedom for most probably 95% of your matchup. There is no recording any of the rolls, you just merely take one attack at a time and use your imagination to keep the match interesting, without having to worry about numbers and totals.

When trying for a reverse, or looking to try for a reverse, you look at the highest numbers rolled. That means on the original attack there was a "15" and a "24." The highest rolled number was the "24" so that's all you look at. When wanting to reverse a move, you try to beat or tie that "24" with your own numbers. If your highest number does not tie or beat a "24," then you are forced to sell the move anyways and your opponent will then wait on you to sell before attacking you once again. One of the biggest parts of a match is how well you sell. I, myself, will even go on record as saying that how well you sell is more important than how well you attack. Selling maneuvers from your opponent good means that the match means a lot to you and you are really working hard to make the match good, which in turn keeps other people watching interested. Here's an example of a sell after having lost the reversal attempt:

If you or your opponent manages to get a max on a regular maneuver it means the victim of the maneuver would be stunned. A stun means that you are laid out for either one minute or one free move by your opponent and it's your opponent's choice. He can take that minute to set up some weapons around the ring or do whatever it is he or she needs to do, or just go ahead and take that free shot against a stunned opponent. There are unlimited stuns for however many times someone rolls a max number on a regular move. Stuns also happen on combination moves as well, but the time and free moves are increased to two minutes or two free shots, just like if you were knocked out. During your time as stunned, you cannot reverse the moves until you are out of your stunned state.

There comes a time when you attack, you'll add a bit more flavor and texture to what you are doing. You may want to go with a set of moves and attack with a variety, rather than split the assault off move by individual move. When doing this, it's called a COMBO or a Combination Move. In this case, you will roll a different dice but the principle is the exact same. If someone hits you with a COMBO, then you must use the same dice to reverse that COMBO. For example, if your opponent hits you with a COMBO move, you cannot reverse it with a regular move. The dice rolled to attack you must be the same dice in the reversal. Always keep that in mind! Here's an example of a COMBO move:

Another fun thing to do during a match is try to knock your opponent out! This is called a KO or a knock-out attempt and is a separate dice as well. When most people try to knock their opponents out, they are either buying themselves some time, or are looking to either taunt to persuade a quick near-fall or have two free moves in on you. When your opponent tries to hit the knock-out on you, you have the choice to reverse or sell the move, just like the regular moves. The ruling on knock-outs are a little tricky at first to understand, but overtime you will definitely know it like the back of your hand. For starters, let's see what a knock-out looks like, and then the reversal.

The winning dice on the knock-out attempt was the original move which was the 16. The move did connect and it was sold properly. However, the winning dice was not at or over 20, so the knock-out advantage does not factor in. When the winning dice on a knock-out exchange is 24 or below, it will only count as a regular move and nothing more. If the winning roll is over 25, then you have several different options and routes to take and the choice is absolutely yours! The first choice once you knock out your opponent is that you get two free moves of any kind and the opponent cannot reverse. That means, if you knock your opponent out you have two free moves and don't have to worry about getting reversed during those two free moves. The second choice you can take after knocking your opponent out is using a taunt. A taunt is an attempt to rouse the crowd watching the match in order to gain a +1 to your dice. For example, your regular starting dice is 2d30 for regular moves, 1d30 for pinfalls/submissions/knock-outs, 2d40 for combinations, 1d35 for trademarks and 1d40 for finishing moves. If you successfully taunt, all of your dice will increase by +1, which would make this happen: 2d31 for regular moves, 1d31 for pinfalls/submissions/knock-outs, 2d41 for combinations, 1d36 for trademarks and 1d41 for finishing moves. Another option to take after you have knocked your opponent out is to take two minutes of free time while the opponent is knocked-out. You cannot attack your opponent, otherwise it will count as one of the two free moves and each hit will drop the hybernation time down one minute. So, if you feel the need to setup some ladders, tables or anything else then don't attack your knocked out opponent at all and they must wait two minutes before they can move around again. This is the least used of the three choices but has always been a choice from the beginning.

Trademark moves are probably one of the most confusing parts of the dice rules because not everybody know what a trademark move is in wrestling. To clarify this, let me use a few examples. The Rock's trademark would be his People's Elbow. Steve Austin's trademark would be his Lou Thesz Press. Bill Goldberg's trademark is undoubtedly the spear and so on, so forth. In a nutshell, the trademark maneuver is a move you enjoy doing during a match and you like it enough that you'll do it in probably every single match you are in, but isn't your finishing maneuver. The trademark move is very helpful in the dice rules because if performed to a maximum, it will give you a major boost when you decide to hit your finisher on your opponent. Despite all of that, trademark moves are probably performed the least of any style in the dice rules, but it's still there for when you are just itching to do it. Here's an example of a trademark maneuver in action!

Just like every other thing in the dice rules, there will always be a winner and a loser of each move exchanged between opponents. The 26 was higher than the 20 in this battle, so the original move won and the loser had to sell the winner's maneuver. You probably read above that hitting a maximum trademark could benefit your finisher and it does. If you manage to hit a 35 on your trademark (or the max number possible at any rate) you will gain a +1 advantage on the number that you roll for your finisher. For example, if you get the winning move on the finisher exchange and you end up with a 16, if you had maxed out your trademark earlier in the match then you can boost it up to 17 for accomplishing that. Unfortunately, every maximum trademark bonus only counts per one finisher, so consider this!

And now, let's talk about finishing maneuvers, shall we? Finishing moves are what you use to put your opponent down once and for all! These are most usually high impact moves or submission holds used after having softened your opponent down with regular moves and combinations throughout the entire match. When the time comes for finishers to be legal in your match, you most likely worked on the part of the body that is most damaged by your finishing maneuver to give the match a little more flavor and excitement. You are allowed three finishing maneuvers per each match until you cannot do anymore, so please remember this! Once you run out, you can only use pinfalls or submissions to win your match. The finishing moves are a bit tricky from a dice standpoint, so I am going to take it slowly so that you may understand how it works. Your finishing move dice is a standard 1d40 and can only be done with everything's been called legal in a match. Once you type your finisher out, you then roll the dice and it's here where you come to a fork in the road of this dice system once again. Between the numbers of 1-30 you are looking at an automatic pinfall on your opponent. If you managed to connect and rolled between 1-30 then you get the +3 addition because you just hit your finishing move. For example, if you connect your finisher and win over the reversal and score a 23 pinfall, you would then add +3 to that for the pinfall on your opponent, making the pin 26. If you roll between 31-39 then your opponent goes into knock out mode and the choices from a regular knock out are applied here. Only, instead of two free moves you get three and instead of two hibernation minutes, you get three. And finally, there's the big maximum dice you can hit while rolling for your finisher. If you get the big 40, that means you automatically win the match by total knock-out with no questions asked if your opponent tried to reverse you. If you are the first to roll for your finisher and hit the 40 and your opponent hasn't rolled yet, you must wait until he/she tries to tie the 40 before the match is over. If he/she succeeds in tying your score, the opponent will win! If he/she does not tie the number, they will lose by TKO as stated above. Obviously, the TKO is a marvelous thing to connect with in your match! Here is an example of a finishing maneuver being put to the test:

As you can see from the above example, each pin or submission predicament comes with three kick out tries no matter what. Those are three chances to beat or tie the number your opponent rolled to put you into the pinfall or submission so that you can break out and the match can continue. Where things differ is when the reversal tries are figured in. If you have been pinned or put into a submission hold just out of the blue during your match, you will get a chance to reverse the original pinfall or submission move to see if it even connects first of all. If you fail and it does, that's when you get three kickout tries and two reversal tries to roll the pin/submission over and maneuver your way into a pinfall or submission on your opponent instead. The entire time, you are only thinking about that original dice that was rolled to put you into the pin or submission and until you tie or break it you are locked in and at the mercy of your opponent. Here's an example of a pinfall being used in a match:

While locked into a pinfall, you can get outside help from team-mates on your tag team, stable members or just outside managers, valets or allies who are accompanying you to the ring! You can request help from these friendlies to help break you out of the current pinfall or submission and save you from a possible loss! There are only two BA's per person who is at the ring helping you and that goes for each pinfall. For example, if you get pinned a total of five times during your match, the valet/manager/ally you have accompanying you can try two times for each of the five pins! It pays off to have friends at ringside! There is a three-person limit for how many people you can have BA'ing for your side of the match. Here is an example of a BA (break attempt) being put to the test:

I touched base on something called taunts up above a little ways when describing the different paths you can take once you've knocked your opponent out. The only way you are able to taunt is if you have knocked out or stunned your opponent and they are lifeless at the moment. You can only taunt once before your opponent wakes back up and there's only two taunt tries per match, so use them wisely. The taunt method has also been changed and tweaked a bit from what most of you normally are used to. From now on, when you taunt you can succeed in getting two different kinds of taunt: face or heel. You will roll the 1d10 for the taunt and if you score a 5 you will receive heel heat. If you score a 10 you will receive face draw. You will no longer get a +1 bonus from a taunt, but you will get a chance to go for a quick pinfall with advantages depending on which kind of reaction you are getting from the crowd. If you got heel heat, and you use the near-fall option, your opponent will have three kick-outs and one reversal. If the crowd gave you a face draw reaction and you go for the near-fall your opponent will have one chance to kick out and three reversals. Obviously, the heel being pinned will have a higher chance to reverse you into his own pinfall or submission because that is what the bad guys do. For a good guy being pinned, he will have a maximum shot at kicking out the valiant way. The near-fall option can only happen if you succeed in your taunt and you go for the pinfall directly afterwards. If you do a move after the taunt, the near-fall option is null and void until someone in the match scores another successful taunt again. As stated earlier, there are only two taunts per match so use them wisely.

Sometimes you may find yourself in a tag team match or a multiple tag match and you'll probably want to know how to tag in or out, right? Over time, the tag team rules have changed throughout the years but it's finally been official and tagging in or out is probably pretty simple now. All you do is just role-play tagging your partner in or out and include some sort of attack that is being involved. Whether it be holding the opponent so your partner can lash out when he climbs in the ring, or completing a double irish whip and then a two-man hip toss. Whatever you and your partner have in mind, just make sure a dice is rolled when you decide to make the tag. The opponent from the other team can have a chance to reverse the tag that was made by beating the dice rolled just as if it were a regular move. Just as in any other option to reverse, the opponent can sell the tag that was made or reverse it. If the opponent reverses the tag, the original occupant of the team will still be legal and the tag was never made. Here's an example of a tag being made:

Fatal Damages or Injures have been around a very long time, dating back into the early RCWF days when they were merely 1d100 and whatever number you got, that's how many days you were out of action! Of course, nobody ever followed by the rules exact and it's been that way through the years. Fortunately, I've finally come up with a formula that will be realistic and at the same time, not bore people out of their minds for having to miss so much in-ring action. First of all, to go for the injury attempt on your opponent, you must have the go-ahead from the writing staff to do this. We can't be injuring all of our main event stars all in one night, now can we? The second part of injuries that you should know is that each wrestler can only get one chance at injuring another star each month. Now, for the juicy details. To injure your opponent, you will first roll the 1d6 to determine where the victim is being attacked on their body. Each number represents a part of the victim's body and whichever you get, that is where your damage will lead. Once you have rolled the dice, then you role-play the actual attack taking place. Once you do this, you now wait for the victim to roll the 1d3 defense roll which will determine how severe the injury actually is. 1 is the lowest injury time possible, with ten days out of action and a -1 on all dice if the target wrestles within his or her injury time. 2 is the medium injury time with 25 days out of action and a -2 to all dice if they wrestle during their injury span. Getting a 3 is a major injury and the victim will be out of action for 45 days and if he or she wrestles during that time, will lose -3 on all dice. Of course, the negatives to the dice does not include bleed attempts. On the targeting of the body, here are the parts of the body and the numbers used for it: 1: Head, 2: Arms, 3: Chest/Abdomen, 4: Back, 5: Groin, 6: Legs. Here's an example of the new method of using fatal damage or injuries on an opponent:

Last but not least, you've probably seen a lot of code names being used throughout this rules explanation. These are needed for all of your special attacks and moves, otherwise your opponent has no idea what kind of attack you are doing! There is no code needed for regular moves, so that is not necessary although some people have labeled regular moves as "Reg" just to be on the safe side. For combination moves, you'll title that as "COMBO." Finishers are "FIN." Trademarks are "TM." Knockouts and Kick outs are "KO." Submissions are "SUB." Pinfalls are "PIN." Bleed Attempts are "BEA." Taunting is "TAUNT." Tagging in and out of the match is best served with "TAG." The near-fall after the taunt attempt can be registered with "NF" or "Near-Fall." For injuring someone, always post "FD." Finally, and the most important of all of the codings is "REV" for your reverses. Sometimes, people will not take your moves if you don't post the codes for each attack, especially the reverses. You must make double sure you post the code at the end of your role-play every single time! Do not forget this!